
Paths to paradise: A hiking trip in Cinque Terre, Italy, goes beyond the crowds to uncover sweet surprises
Church bells echoed through the sunny piazza as I plopped down on a stone bench, digging my plastic spoon into a cup of basil gelato. I’d hiked about 5 miles that morning. I had another 5 to go. A mound of ice cream felt like a fitting reward for reaching …